My enjoyment with the ocean often extends to seeing others find their enjoyment with the same ocean. Nowhere is this more true than when I get to see surfers head out into the water in search of ‘the perfect wave’.
In my eyes, I can see the reverence they have for the ocean before their feet make the initial contact. I’ve seen this reverence in the eyes and body language of surfers while removing their surfboards from the hoods of their cars. It’s as though they slip into a different mindset; a different awareness meant to prepare them for that ‘first contact’ of the day or evening surfing session.
This particular photo comes from a recent evening shoot. I’ve made a few posts lately featuring both surf and surfers, during evening and morning. In each instance, the attitudes of the surfers were more or less the same; the obvious love for the water- the same. As you can see, this photo is from a bit of a distance. I fortunately had both of my telephoto lenses- as did lots of other photographers. Zooming in during moments like this one only certified my belief that for many if not all these surfers, the physical act of surfing is only half the story. There’s the love of one’s environment, the being with friends/community, and in some cases- the solitary enjoyment to be had in surfing solo.
Most of the surfers I saw on this evening shoot were there at the ocean as long or longer that me, which meant at least two hours. I imagine most of not all felt as I do when leaving the ocean: a sense of peace, a sense of unexplained joy, and a sense that now, having communed properly with the ocean, the day was truly done.
K’lee L. ©2014