Evening Photography: The Surfer Returns to Shore

surfer surf surfboard ocean swim enjoy sport photography photo sunset Nikon

The surfer returns to shore… having completed his latest meaningful dialogue with the ocean.
-K’lee L.

My enjoyment with the ocean often extends to seeing others find their enjoyment with the same ocean. Nowhere is this more true than when I get to see surfers head out into the water in search of ‘the perfect wave’.

In my eyes, I can see the reverence they have for the ocean before their feet make the initial contact. I’ve seen this reverence in the eyes and body language of surfers while removing their surfboards from the hoods of their cars. It’s as though they slip into a different mindset; a different awareness meant to prepare them for that ‘first contact’ of the day or evening surfing session.

This particular photo comes from a recent evening shoot. I’ve made a few posts lately featuring both surf and surfers, during evening and morning. In each instance, the attitudes of the surfers were more or less the same; the obvious love for the water- the same. As you can see, this photo is from a bit of a distance. I fortunately had both of my telephoto lenses- as did lots of other photographers. Zooming in during moments like this one only certified my belief that for many if not all these surfers, the physical act of surfing is only half the story. There’s the love of one’s environment, the being with friends/community, and in some cases- the solitary enjoyment to be had in surfing solo.

Most of the surfers I saw on this evening shoot were there at the ocean as long or longer that me, which meant at least two hours. I imagine most of not all felt as I do when leaving the ocean: a sense of peace, a sense of unexplained joy, and a sense that now, having communed properly with the ocean, the day was truly done.

K’lee L. ©2014

8 thoughts on “Evening Photography: The Surfer Returns to Shore

      • Ah, well that’s all thanks to my ex-wife, who was very witty. And clever.
        Years ago she set up an email address for me for something or other. I was never much good on a surfboard, except when lying on it on the beach, and combined with what she would call dubious web surfing activity – I insist I just stumbled on it accidentally! – that was what she came up with.
        I didn’t use it much for years but every now and then a pseudonym came in handy, and when looking to try out WordPress I just typed it in as I set up the user account.
        What I do know about surfing is that it isn’t anywhere near as easy as they make it look.

        Liked by 1 person

    • Thank you for this! I will add it to my list pronto! I’m thinking once I get up the nerve, I’ll fully understand what that ‘reverence’ is all about. I’m kinda hoping the first time for me will be in Hawaii, but if not… it’s OK.

      Like

  1. Reblogged this on Beach Bum Dreams and commented:
    Most of the surfers I saw on this evening shoot were there at the ocean as long or longer that me, which meant at least two hours. I imagine most of not all felt as I do when leaving the ocean: a sense of peace, a sense of unexplained joy, and a sense that now, having communed properly with the ocean, the day was truly done. – These words truly capture my feelings about having a sense of peace after becoming one with the ocean. It is the realization of how small we are in the grand scheme of things but yet at the same time understanding you belong.

    Like

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